Pulling an engine out of a tight bay or dropping one back in takes more than muscle. It takes tools built for strength, control, and precision. Two of the most common tools used in shops and garages are the Engine Lift Plate and Lifting Brackets.
Though they often work toward the same goal—lifting heavy blocks—they do it in very different ways.
Let’s break it all down from the perspective of people who use both daily.
What an Engine Lifting Plate Does Best
A lifting plate bolts directly to the valley or intake manifold. It offers a dead-center pull point. That’s a huge plus for balance.
If you're working with an LS, SBC, or BBC, it’s the fastest way to get a secure, straight lift. Most plates have three holes to adjust tilt. A flat lift for storage. A tilted one to sneak past firewalls.
The plate’s strength comes from where it mounts—right over the motor's strongest core area. No damage to valve covers. No pressure on the heads.
Key points:
● Bolts down in minutes
● Helps control engine angle
● Reduces risk of damage
● Compact and flat—easy to store
● Often works with or without the intake
Good plates are cut from thick steel—at least 1/4" for real work. Thin metal flexes, and that flex is dangerous when you're holding 600+ pounds in the air.
We’ve seen builders ruin valve covers or scratch heads using chains and straps. That doesn’t happen with a good plate.
Where Lifting Brackets Win
Heavy-duty lifting brackets bolt to the sides—usually on the heads, exhaust ports, or intake bosses. They’re great when a lift plate won’t fit or when the intake stays on.
They’re more versatile in terms of placement. You can set them wide or narrow. Use one on each end. Control your own lift angle without a tilt bar.
This is key during custom swaps or working around A/C lines, turbos, or tight brake boosters.
They also give better side access. Some builds need the top open. Maybe you’re wiring. Maybe you're tuning. Brackets leave that space clear.
Key points:
● Bolt on where space allows
● Leave the top of engine clear
● Handle offset lifts better
● Easy to pair with chains or hooks
● Compact but still strong
The best ones are gusseted, use laser-cut steel, and come with grade 8 hardware. If they bend or flex, walk away.
Which One Works Best? Depends on the Job.
Use a lift plate for:
● Centered balance
● Clean pulls from V-style motors
● Keeping paint and parts safe
● Jobs where intake is already off
Use lifting brackets for:
● Tight space swaps
● Overhead access needs
● Custom angle lifts
● Setups where chains help more than a centered hook
In many cases, the best answer is both. We’ve done swaps where we start with a plate, then switch to brackets during install. No single tool solves every lift.
Material Makes All the Difference
One thing matters across both tools—steel quality. Cheap plates crack. Thin brackets warp.
We use only full 1/4" high-carbon steel for both lift plates and brackets. That gives the tool real load strength. It doesn’t twist. It holds shape. And it doesn’t leave the builder wondering, “Is that weld going to give?”
Shops that try 3/16" gear often regret it. That stuff bends. Fast.
Quick Comparison Table
|
Feature |
Lift Plate |
Lifting Brackets |
|
Mount Location |
Valley/intake area |
Heads or side ports |
|
Best For |
Center lift and angle control |
Offset lifts and tight bays |
|
Lifting Style |
Hook in one spot |
Hook via chain/strap system |
|
Space Needed Above Engine |
Low |
Higher (for chain clearance) |
|
Top-Side Access After Mount |
Blocked |
Fully open |
|
Storage Needs |
Flat and compact |
Small but separate pieces |
Conclusion – Why We Build It Right at EngineLiftPlates
At EngineLiftPlates, we’ve worked on every type of swap you can name. We don’t guess. We don’t cut corners.
Every Engine Lifting Plate and bracket set we sell is made from full 1/4" high-carbon steel. Most other shops only offer 3/16"—that’s not enough for real work. We laser-cut for perfect hole alignment. Our parts fit LS, SBC, BBC, and more.
We weld and finish every bracket to handle real stress. Our holes line up without fuss. We coat each tool to fight rust. That’s how we make tools that last.
We’ve seen what happens when builders use thin steel or mystery metal from overseas. Brackets twist. Plates bend. And engines drop. That risk isn't worth it.
Do you really want to trust your fresh build to some poorly made China mystery metal plate?
We don’t. And neither should you.
Our tools hold the weight. Handle the heat. And help the build move forward—safely, every time.
FAQs
1. Can a lift plate be used with the intake on?
Most engine lift plates are made for use with the intake removed. However, some models are designed to bolt directly into the valley cover. That allows lifting without removing the intake, which can save time on certain builds.
2. Are lifting brackets better for front-wheel drive cars?
Yes, in many cases. Front-wheel drive setups often need the engine tilted or pulled at an angle, which brackets handle well. They also give more side access, which helps in tight transaxle bays.
3. What’s the ideal steel thickness for safe lifting?
1/4" high-carbon steel is the gold standard. It offers solid strength without bending or warping under load. Using thinner steel—like 3/16"—can cause flex, especially on heavy V8s or turbo setups.
4. How do I know which one to buy for my engine?
Check your engine layout and how much access you have. If the intake is already off, go with a plate for better center balance. If parts need to stay on or the space is tight, brackets offer more flexibility.
5. Can both tools be used together?
Yes, and many pros do exactly that. A lift plate may be ideal for removal, while brackets offer more control during install. It depends on the space, lift angle needed, and what parts are staying on the motor.
6. How long do these tools last?
With proper care, they’ll last through years of builds. Store them dry, avoid rust, and check bolt holes between jobs. There are no moving parts to wear out—just steel that does the job every time.